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Guide

How often should bathroom sealant be replaced?

Nobody can put a number on it that is worth anything, because the same silicone in the same bathroom lasts very different lengths of time depending on how the room is used and whether it is ventilated.

So this article is about the four signs instead. If none of them is there, leave it alone. If one of them is, it is due, and doing it before it leaks is the cheap version of this job.

An ageing white silicone bead along a bath to tile joint that has yellowed, split and lifted away from the tile along its length, with grey mould starting in the corner

The four signs it is due

It has lifted anywhere along its length. Look along the joint at a low angle with a torch, not straight on. A hairline shadow between the silicone and the tile means water is already getting behind it, whatever the front of the bead looks like.

The black is inside rather than on top. If it stays after a clean, the mould has grown into the material and the joint has to come out. Bleach whitens the surface of a colony rather than killing it.

It has shrunk. An old bead pulls back slightly from one or both edges as the plasticisers leave it, and the tell is a fine gap at the ends before the middle.

It has gone hard. Press it with a fingernail. Fresh sanitary silicone gives; an old one is firm and slightly brittle, which means it can no longer take the movement of a bath filling and emptying and will open at the next flex.

Why the same joint lasts different lengths of time

Ventilation does more than anything else. A joint in a room with a working extractor that runs on for a few minutes after a shower stays dry for most of the day. The same joint in a room where the window stays shut in winter holds moisture continuously, and continuous moisture is what feeds the mould.

Use matters next. A family bathroom taking four showers a day is a different environment from a spare bathroom used at Christmas, and the joints wear accordingly.

Then there is what was under it when it went on. A bead run onto a joint that was not dry, or onto a residue film, can fail inside a year regardless of the product. Most of the very short lifespans people report are this rather than the silicone.

What makes a joint last longer, for free

Wipe the joint down with a dry cloth after a shower, or at least at the end of the day. Ten seconds, and it takes the standing water off the one surface that holds it against the tile.

Run the extractor for ten minutes after the room is empty rather than switching it off with the light. If there is no extractor, leave the window on the vent catch and the door open.

Do not use a bleach spray on the joint as routine maintenance. It whitens the surface and does not reach the mould inside the material, and repeated bleaching leaves the surface of the silicone chalky and slightly porous, which makes it hold dirt faster afterwards.

Doing it before it leaks is the cheap version

A joint replaced because it looks tired is a resealing job. A joint replaced after water has been getting behind it for six months can involve a soft floor, a stained ceiling below, or a bath that has to come out, and none of that is resealing work.

That is the whole argument for acting on the four signs rather than waiting for a visible problem. It is also why a landlord with several properties is usually better off resealing between tenancies than reacting to a report.

If you are not sure which of the four you are looking at, a photograph along the joint at a low angle answers it in most cases, and it costs nothing to send one.

Also asked

Related questions

Is there an interval I should just book it in on?

No, and anybody offering one is guessing. The four signs above are the test. On rented property, between tenancies is a sensible rhythm because the room is empty and the photographs settle any question later.

The joint looks fine but smells musty. Is that the sealant?

It can be. Mould in a joint is a living thing and it smells before it shows in some rooms, particularly behind a bath panel. Take the panel off and look underneath before assuming it is the visible joint.

Can one bad section be replaced rather than the whole run?

It can be done, and it rarely lasts, because the new section is butted against cured silicone at each end and those two joins are then the weakest points in the run. A full length is the sensible unit, and it is what the price covers.

If you would rather not

The job this article describes, done for a published price

Bath, shower and kitchen resealing, stripped out and done properly. Prices include VAT and the silicone.

The pages this covers

  • Bath resealing

    The old sealant round the bath stripped out completely, the joint cleaned back and dried, and a fresh sanitary bead run and tooled. £95 including VAT and silicone.

  • Silicone removal and replacement

    The full strip out: mouldy, lifting or badly applied sealant taken out completely, the joint cleaned back to bare surfaces, and a new bead run properly.

The other guides

Get a price

Book a reseal with Exeter Silicone Services

Send a photograph of the joint and say which fittings need doing. Back comes the price off the published card and the next free slot. Ringing is quicker if you want a date fixed today.

Bath or shower
£95
Both on one visit
£150
Whole bathroom
£185

VAT and silicone included. Minimum charge £95.

Call 07307 202508Book a reseal